Epoxy Nightstand



  1. Taking a scrap piece of melamine shelving, cut the pieces into what would be shaped to be the mold.

    Table saw
  2. Using the fence of your table saw, square you pieces to their final dimensions to ensure a tight fitting mold.

  3. Secure the mold with 1-1⁄4” screws via the butt-joint.

  4. Using sheathing tape or any other waterproofing tape, seal off all the joint, including taping off the entire inside of the mold.

    Sheathing tape
  5. Using a two part epoxy system, mix one part hardener and two parts resin, and mix for one minute.

    Epoxy mix
  6. Pour the mixed epoxy resin into the mold to about 1 inch in depth.

    Pouring epoxy mix
  7. Using a Bernzomatic TS4000 Torch along with the Map-Pro or propane gas, make quick passes over the epoxy to drive all the air bubbles to the surface. This prevents the air bubble from drying inside the epoxy and in return improves clarity and flawlessness of your epoxy.

    Drying epoxy
  8. In three days, remove the screws holding the mold together and, using a flat screwdriver, attempt to pry the mold off of the epoxy. Be sure to avoid touching the epoxy with the screwdriver to avoid chopping.

    Pry mold apart
  9. Using your jointer to flatten out both sides of the hardened epoxy. (Disclaimer, avoid placing it into the thickness planer to avoid possible epoxy damage.)

  10. Using your table saw, square up the epoxy edges to make the sharp and defined.

    Table saw
  11. Lay out your smart technology the way you see most fit.

  12. Mark out the cutting line for the watch arm and the phone rest.

    Marking cutting line
  13. Cut the excess out using your bandsaw, jig saw or hand saw.

    Band saw
  14. Set your table saw blade to a 15 degree tilt and create one swift cut.

    Table saw at 15 degrees
  15. Sand the two pieces using 80-120-220 grit sandpaper.

    Orbital sander
  16. Mark out the channel for where your phone will sit. Measure the width of your phone while your case is on. This step is optional; I did it only to anticipate ever getting a different phone or larger case.

    Marking channel
  17. Using a palm router and a round nose router bit to route out a 1⁄4” channel.

  18. Using a 1-1⁄8” Forstner bit, bore a hole 1⁄2” deep.

    Forstner bit
  19. Using a 1⁄2” Forstner bit, drill a hole all the way through where the cellphone would sit.

    After drilling
  20. Lay down tape and, using a small blade multi-purpose saw, cut a small 1⁄8” channel from the two holes where the cable will sit and hide.

  21. Make another channel for the bottom of the base where the cellphone charger cable will run. Skip ahead in the instructions to get a better understanding.

    Small-blade multi-purpose saw
  22. Using E6000 industrial adhesive, glue the two pieces together and secure it with an angle clamping jig overnight.

    Clamping jig
  23. Sand everything using 400-500-600 grit using sanding pads.

    Sanding pads
  24. Seal the project using shellac. You can spray or wipe on. I recommend wiping on to minimize “orange peel.”

  25. Using a 5/16” drill bit, drill a hole where the charging cable will come out.

  26. Feed the cell phone charging cable through and secure with hot glue.

    Hot glue
  27. Secure the watch charge hub with hot glue, line the cable through the cable channel and secure with hot glue as well. Finally feed the charger USB port through the 1⁄2” hole we made earlier.

    Complete project

What You'll Need


DuraCast™ 4000 Torch

Product Info


14.1 oz. MAP-Pro® Hand Torch Cylinder

Product Info